Cover story
Be Fashionably Correct on Your Wedding Day - by Nidhi kathuria
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When you have a precious gift for someone you love, you painstakingly find the best gift wrapper that will make your loved one receive your gift with more joy and fervor. The bride also has the treasure trove of love to give and she cares about how best she will traditionally and yet differently give her gift. Men on the other hand, who are most happy in a pair of old blue jeans and white t-shirt are willing to get into ‘out of the ordinary’ look because let’s not forget, it’s their special day too!
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What was hot 5 years back or even a year back is a passé today and yet we see the fashion from 60’s and 70’s coming back full circle! So, what dictates the change in fashion? Is it the change in season, Paris-the Mecca of fashion, designer’s inspiration or mere boredom, bride and groom’s vision or the magic of your favorite stars that causes the sudden shifts in our perspectives, taste and pockets? Let’s find out...
what a bride wants
To start with, every bride wants to look special. She wants to outshine any other bride that has ever been or be in future. If the beauty regime is something she follows religiously, which includes watching her calories, getting regular facials, dental cleaning or even grooming and etiquettes, another important aspect which is paid most attention to is clothes.
"Unfortunately only 8 women in a thousand look like supermodels, so what are the rest of us to do?" quizzes Bhavesh Patel of Sahil. Fashion defines an overall look; however, every bride would only be able to carry a specific cut. That is where the consultation works, according to Geetanjali Singh of Khubsoorat Collection, (designs by Mani Kohli), seconded by Bhavesh Patel of Sahil. "You can look exactly like you want at your wedding, even if it is a movie star", says Shirin Vinayak of Shehnaai. According to Shirin, a bride should confide in her designer and tell the designer exactly how she wants to look and then trust his/her judgment on how to make that possible for her. She also recommends a 3-4 month ordering time for a bridal piece. This will make it possible for the bride to be involved in every aspect of the design process.
The Designer Edge
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Today brides prefer a contemporary look, a balance of modern with the tradition. Yet, there are brides who don’t mind being more flamboyant or going for the ‘mix and match look’. Fashion is creating and destroying at the same time, according to fashion designer Anand Jon. He constantly experiments with a mix of fabrics. One of his interesting bridal creations for the runway consisted of a leather corset in maroon with a full skirt in the same color and a ‘jaalwork’ of zardozi in gold. "Elegance is the underlying statement in my clothes", says Dolly Patel of Khajana. Colors have gone more vibrant. South-Asian brides in U.S. are merrily adding shades of blue, hot pink, greens and sapphires in their wedding trousseau, according to Dolly.
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Though, designer Manish Malhotra who constantly works with celebrities from the Hindi film circuit believes that fashion in U.S. is dated. Also, there is a difference between the fashion scene in Mumbai and Delhi itself, explains Manish. In Delhi fashion is constantly influenced by the weather, whereas in Mumbai there are no winters. But at the same time, the star icons in reel life and real life predominantly dictate fashion too.
Fusion Dreams
These days, design elements are inspired by a certain heritage and adapted to fit a customary ensemble of a different culture altogether. Javad Siddiqi of Indus Fashions lends a practical and yet a stylish traditional look to his designs, where the fabrics over which a rich Pakistani work and embroidery is done, mostly consists of Japanese and Chinese crepes and silks. ‘Jamavar work’ done over these imported fabrics gives a modern and chic look to the garment. Geetanjali Singh of Khubsoorat Collection, (designs by Mani Kohli), draws from the influences of a rich Indian heritage and adopts the concept of fusion by merging ethnic culture with a modern cosmopolitan flavor. Each designer at Khajana has a different signature style, according to Dolly Patel. Works of designer Sabyasachi Mukherji are a happy mix of tradition with the jet age. His designs are adventurous, loved by conservative and modern clientele equally. Whereas, Ritu Kumar’s clothes are heavy in traditional craftsmanship and again goes off the rack quickly because they truly represent an Indian woman who is on a global conquest, asserts Dolly.
"Team a Chinese neck kurta with palazzo pants for a chic look", tips Bhavesh Patel of Sahil. Halter necks and asymmetric cholis also go well with a conventional skirt in kali or ghera style, suggests Rabia Khan of Zuni Fashions. Shirin Vinayak of Shehnaai is soon showcasing designer lines at her store and at a popular lounge in NYC, which are inspired by different eras in Indian history, such as Mideaval era, Rajputana, Mughal, Sultan, Courtesan, etc. (by Ritu Kumar, Satya Paul and Payal Singhal, Nisha Sagar, Priya & Chintan). "Chinese Brocade Trouser with peach silk resham embroidered long kurta and accessorized with a peach beaded bag in satin lends a classy look for the cocktail", says Zarmina Majid of Zari Boutique. Ajay Patel of Vulcal draws inspiration from ancient Indian craftsmanship techniques such as zardozi, bandhani and chikan work, and combines these with a fashionable flair to create outfits that are practical, modern yet ooze culture.
What's Hot?
‘Experimenting’ is the buzzword and so this year, break all the rules! In the movie Dhadkan, the gorgeous and very talented Shilpa Shetty wore a beautiful blue colored lehenga in her marriage to handsome hunk Akshay Kumar. It is fair to say that despite numerous fashion forecasts by leading national and international designers, the larger than life Hindi Films are the last word on fashion or bridal fashion for that matter, says Rohit Kakkar of Om The Origin. According to designer Manish Malhotra, colors that are going to be hot in this season are yellow, green, apple green, turquoise and aqua blue. In fabrics, he suggests chiffon and georgette. Diamond encrusted hand embroidery over classic peacock color and matching design earrings with blue sapphire and emeralds is the new look that Zarmina Majid of Zari Boutique predicts. Says designer Geetanjali Singh of Khubsoorat Collection, (designs by Mani Kohli), "Brides are going back to their roots and desire more traditional looks with modern cuts".
Traditional embroideries on fitted lehangas and full bottom ghera are ‘in’ these days. According to Sweety Singh of Nazar, lavish use of fabric, textures and the dupatta in two tones are very ‘in’. Along with that, sequence, stones and ‘aree’ work over a stylized neckline brings out the complete look of the outfit, informs Sweety. Shades of golden color give a sophisticated and classy look to the bride, according to Javad Siddiqi of Indus Fashions, who personally prefers light golden color with complimenting bright golden dabka or zardozi work. Combination of gold with white, purple and color tones make an aesthetic fashion statement, according to Javad. Sarees, the short kurta with the churidar-styled bottom for the Punjabi bride with heavy embroidery is what Ravi Verma of Maharani Fashions suggests.
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Bright colors such as fuschia, orange, bright yellow and turquoise are in popular demand these days, according to Shobha and Dilip Kakad of Shobha Fashions. Some unusual preferences are strawberry pink and lime says Shobha. Fashion is constantly inspired by what’s on television, according to Rabia Khan of Zuni Fashions. Her recent visit to Delhi confirmed her notion where she came across many retail outlets advertising ‘Jassi’ salwar-kameez and ‘Kyunki Saas Bhi’ sari line.
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"Brights are definitely hot in U.S., whereas in India and Pakistan, they still focus more on pastels and earth-tones", says Rabia. "Zari sarees, silk sarees, printed sarees, bandhej sarees, embroidered sarees, embellished with Kundan work, light sequin work, heavy Zardosi and intricate resham work, are desired by the Indian bride to include in her wedding trousseau", says Rahul Sablawat of Indian Wedding Sari.Com.Orange-Pinkcombo, bright green, majenta and lime green are much in demand, according to Rabia. "Blending of the fabrics is the in thing", says Shirin Vinayak of Shehenaai. She personally prefers warm colors like orange and red.
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Hakoba Sarees’ latest arrivals include ‘Satin Patta’, ‘Anarkali’ and ‘Rainbow Metallic’, HAKOBA Classic on Net, Self Hakoba Swiss Cotton Saree, "Jain" Swiss Cotton Hakoba Sarees, "Two-tone " cotton hakoba sarees, Printed Swiss Cotton Hakoba Sarees, "Gold Swiss Cotton Hakoba Sarees, "Swiss Cotton Multy - thread", "Yoryu silk chiffon" Made In Japan, are some of the sarees says Mukesh Shah, which are creating a craze in the market. "In creating a bridal collection, we indulge in the luxury of lavish extravagance, delicate white gold and mercury filigree which flatter the feminine form", says Ajay Patel of Vulcal Boutique. Jay Patel of Rani Sahiba and Princess Collection revealed that in sarees, brides in U.S. and the blouses that have intricate work prefer medium to dark color and stylish necklines are in trend. 3piece sari, pre-stitched sari with a fishtail cut are going to dominate the wedding season, in a big way, agreed Jay Patel, Shirin Vinayak, Rabia Khan and Dolly Patel.
Mermaid and semimermaid cuts are going to rule the roost for the wedding season of 2005, according to Nausheen Siddiqi of Indus Fashions. Victorian puff style of Lehenga will also dominate, predicts Nausheen and insists that with all the jazz, it is also important to incorporate nature into the designer’s creation. "Tastes are quite region-specific. Some recent choices of blues, greens and flames have been interestingly used. But it would be safe to say that colorful tye n dye of Jaipur will always continue to be a part of bride’s wedding trousseau", says Kamal Singh of Jaipur Emporium, who tipped the bride to pick up few extra Jaipuri Dupattas for ‘mix n match’ purpose as she shopped for her wedding trousseau.
Dressing for ceremonies
Indian wedding is at-least a weak long affair, although the shopping for the various ceremonies starts 6-8 months prior to the wedding. Surjit and Sweety of Nazar suggests that season is one of the most important factors one should keep in mind whereas Kamal Singh of Jaipur Emporium asserts that though complexion, figure and height should be taken in consideration and the bride should avoid buying things on impulse. Rabia Khan of Zuni Fashions maintain that the bride will always look beautiful and that she should be confident enough to carry anything, especially in the case of mixed marriages. Shirin Vinayak of Shehnaai suggests a garara or a sharara or a stylized sari for the cocktails. For the ceremony of sangeet, her pick is lime, green or even turquoise blue. The cut for the garment at the reception can be a fish tail cut for a good fit, according to Rohit Kakkar of Om The Origin. A Fully embroidered silk angarakha style Kurta with zari and sequins worn with churidar and crushed tissue silk dupatta makes a bold statement by the contemporary Indian woman, according to Anil Kakkar of Silver Tulip. Go for a soft and ethereal look for day’s function, suggests Anil.
Mehndi is a colorful ceremony that is full of fun and excitement. Hence bright colors are predominant with green; the color of henna, being the most popular color. Ghagra cholis are preferred and sleeves are kept very short.
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Sangeet is set apart by fun, songs and dance. Hence the garments for this occasion should not constrain movement and be lightweight. Preferred color is pink.
Cocktails generally being a night affair, darker shades are preferred and the look being sleeker, more streamlined indowestern and western. Burgundy is the desired color and the fabric such as Lycra; satin and net are in good taste. Embroidery is minimal.
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Engagement and Wedding Ceremony characterizes traditional colors and look, primarily influenced by the background and culture of the bride. Desired colors-red, maroon, hot pink.
Reception clothes tend to be the most lavish and grand. They are more modern in terms of cuts, embroidery and fabric. Desired colors-blue, lilac, mauve, deep wine.
Dressing Etiquettes for Brides
What must one wear should be decided keeping in mind one’s physical and emotional attributes and common sense at the same time. For example, a bride has to wear a little deep neck because she is likely to wear two jewelry sets, one given by the parent side and one by the in-laws. The neckline cannot have an overwhelming work or it will clash with the jewelry design, explained Javad Siddiqi of Indus Fashions. Also, when you choose a particular design from a rack or a catalogue, remember it may not look the same after the customization. So, be careful in your choice of designer/ tailor/ boutique.
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"We provide consultation in great depth along with swatches for color specification which does not hinder the couple’s process of shopping for other accessories", claims Geetanjali Singh of Khoobsurat Collection, (designs by Mani Kohli). Light colors such as pastels reflect more light and hence enhance the volume of a person. Person on slimmer side should only opt for them.
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Dark colors such as blacks and burgundy, by virtue of reflecting lesser light diminish the volume of the wearer and are advisable for person on the stouter side.
Short person should avoid wearing clothes with contrasting colors.
Avoid figure-clinging fabrics like lycra if you don’t have a slimmer figure.
If you want to wear bright colors, but have a short height, wear heels. Your dress would also fall well.
Remember to wear your wedding lingerie and heels when you are opting for a custom made outfit and the tailor/ designer is taking your measurements.
It’s important that you wear the colors that suit your skin tones, insists Bhavesh Patel of Sahil.
"Color is one of the most important elements in your wardrobe. Make it work for you and show off your complexion to advantage", says Bhavesh, who had few tips to share with us.
Fair skin
If you are fair, you can usually carry off any color. You will look especially great with soft pastels and midtones. Peach, lilac, pinks; aqua, soft greens and medium range blues etc. are all good choices. Avoid too-dark colors; they might make you look pale.
Wheatish skin
With that golden skin you can’t go wrong with bright jewel tones. Emerald green, ruby red, bright orange, rust, turquoise and navy blue were made for you. Not to forget basic black and white.
Dusky skin
One way to play up that gorgeous chocolate skin is to wear bright colors. Sunshine yellow, bright orange, warm red, magenta and bright blue should look great on you. Beige, taupe and white are also good options.
Sari Magic
Your most treasured ensemble in your wardrobe is a piece of beautiful 8-yard cloth, your bridal sari; a true symbol of Indian tradition. "What is it that gives Indian clothing its universal appeal?" asks Bhavesh Patel of Sahil and answers" For one, it is generous to a fault, a few extra inches here and there, are nicely covered up with no one the wiser. Secondly the comfort factor- you can rarely find attire this comfortable and yet so attractive. According to Rahul Sablawat of IndianWeddingSari.Com, a sari in red color with an overall resham mesh having kinari gota work, or a lehariya sari with swarovski or kundan work gives a traditional and elegant look to the bride. Sarees in crepe silk drape well and teamed with stylish blouse and deep neckline lends a hip and diva look to the bride, according to Rahul. Mukesh Shah of Hakoba insists that sarees should be creatively worn to best flaunt woman’s figure.
Shaded sarees with thin embellished borders are making a comeback according to Mukesh. HAKOBA means ‘fine embroidery’ in ‘white’ or ‘multi-color’ yarn with a border of about 4 inches on one side", explains Mukesh. Pure crepe and pure chiffon, which are also weightless fabrics, are much desired by South- Asian brides, according to Jay Patel of Rani Sahiba and Princess Collection. These sarees have intricate Kashmiri work, sequence or antique zardozi work. "Dupion silk sari with crepe tissue border and blouse in antique kundan with mirror work also make a popular choice amongst the brides", says Jay.
COLOR ME RED
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It is said that the girl never looks as beautiful as she does on her wedding day. And why not, that is the day she dreams of on many a balmy and full moon nights, sprinkled with stars that shine best with her imagination and fantasy. She blossoms into a flower that flaunts its beauty and charisma. As her prince charming approaches her, she blushes and turns red. She is the Lady in Red! The color red, auspicious in Hindu marriages has since the conception of traditions and ceremonies enjoyed the prime position in India and US, agreed most of the designers including Rahul Sablawat of IndianWeddingSari.Com, Geetanjali Singh of Khubsoorat Collection, (designs by Mani Kohli), Kamal Singh of Jaipur Emporium, Jay Patel of Rani Sahiba and Princess Collection, Susheel Bhalla of Abhushan, Bhavesh Patel of Sahil and Shobha Kakad of Shobha Fashions.
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Trendy Fabrics
The look of the garment stands out when a fine fabric complements the style, cut and even the embroidery or sequins work. From rich short silks, brocades to French fabrics, bridal wear is all about pure rich fabrics with absolute neat and full trimmings as finishing for layers underneath, insists Geetanjali Singh of Khoobsurat Collection, (designs by Mani Kohli).
Fabrics like pure crepes and silk are favorites amongst the brides who also prefer hand embroidery masterly done to the garment, according to Rabia Khan of Zuni Fashions. Velvet gives a classy look and has a touch of mystique, according to Javad Siddiqi of Indus Fashions.
Banaras koras, brocades and silk fabrics have always been a primary choice of dressing for weddings in Indian culture. "They remain a favorite with the designers as they are versatile and lend themselves to unlimited possibilities as far as hand; machine embroidery is concerned, along with stone and metal wirework." says Rohit Kakkar of Om The Origin. Preferred at the wedding and reception.
Laces and Nets convey a sheer, youthful feel. Preferred at cocktails.
Satin has a luxurious, rich and glossy feel. Generally used as a lining material, satin is versatile and can carry considerable embroidery weight. Preferred in cocktail, reception.
what a Groom wants
Not to look funny for starters! For women, dressing up in different couture is like a second nature and they don’t have to fight any inhibitions. For men it’s a different story. A handful of the grooms are adventurous and love everything about the wedding from haldi tradition to sitting on a horse wearing a heavy pagdi on their heads, though one can bet that any man would need months of mental preparation, motivation and inspiration. The sweet and mushy even offer to co-ordinate their wedding attires with their brides’ dress. So, what happens when the bride chooses to wear dramatic colors like peacock blue or hot pink? Not to worry, advices Sweety Singh of Nazar, that houses men’s collection from Diwan Saheb. "Grooms can wear jewel colors, ivory or off-white and opt for embroidered collars in the bride’s color or simply take a crushed stole or dupatta of that color", says Sweety. Today, it is perfectly acceptable for a man to flaunt color.
However, it is important to cleverly blend it with some masculine shades to achieve the right look. The favorite color pallet for most Indians grooms is light colors, swinging between cream and beige, or earth tones. According to Javad Siddiqi of Indus Fashions, in U.S. grooms are more adventurous and prefer darker colors compared to their counterparts in India. At the same time, they want minimal or no embroidery agree Javad Siddiqi of Indus Fashions, Ajay Patel of Vulcal, Ravi Verma of Maharani Fashions, Susheel Bhalla of Aabhushan and Ninad Patel of XLNC. "Most grooms today opt for suits with unusual detailing like round necks, or wide lapelled coats, to bring an element of distinctiveness to their outfit," says Ninad.
Mission Tradition
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Ethnic outfits look stylish and add an air of royalty. An open Sherwani lends a chic look. Or even just a traditional silk kurta in an angrakha style and churidar in ivory or cream with mojri for your feet, makes the groom of 21st century look traditionally elegant. A classic Sherwani teams well with Jodhpur pants, pyjamas/ aligadhis or a churidar. Or even a straight parallel cut pair or trousers. The Bandhgala is now being considered as a fashion statement. "Quite similar in style to the Sherwani, the difference being that the Bandhgala is of the normal jacket length with five buttons instead of seven and is generally worn with formal western trousers", explains Anil Kakkar of Silver Tulip.
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Consequently, most designs for the groom use classic cuts and fits, and emphasized with traditional motifs like the paisley and buti. "One can opt for Kurtas of varying lengthsknee length kurtas are very in, and if one wishes to be slightly unconventional, calf length is safe, especially for grooms who are not used to the traditional side of the clothes", says Ninad Patel of XLNC, who showcases men’s collection from Study by Janak.
men in suits
The suit is still the strongest contender for groom wear. And it goes without saying that black is the most desired color. For a more formal look, you could wear a suit and make it a black-tie affair. Make sure that you wear a light fabric suit, which is chic and durable. Grooms sport suits on occasions such as cocktail and reception. The jacket length is preferably long with 6 buttons.
Dressing Etiquettes for Grooms
Every wedding is unique, and every groom must choose what he finds most appealing and comfortable at the same time. "Quality at every stage of production - from sourcing of fabrics to perfecting the cut to exotic embellishments to perfect stylization, should be taken care of while custom stitching by the designer", insists Rohit Kakkar of Om The Origin.
- Sherwanis look utterly classy, regal and are perfect for the wedding. But the fit has to be perfect and the broad shoulder look it lends cannot be overdone.
- For those who prefer the tried and the tested, colors like off-white, navy and brown will never go out of fashion. And of’ course black is the color for all seasons.
- Take only pure crepe or silk stole or the one with crushed look. You don’t want to take a cheaper fabric stole, which resembles the packing for mithai boxes.
- Avoid long jackets worn over silk kurta pyjama this season. Go for either sherwani or kurta pyjama.
- Go for subtle embroidery only and keep away from ‘jaal’ embroidery or unbridled ornamentation of your outfit.
- Take care that your Churidar should be longer in length than required with the excess cuffing at the bottom.
What's the Good Price?
Mukesh Shah of HAKOBA insists that their sarees are reasonably priced since they are the original creator and manufacturer of the entire product (from start-to-finish). A sherwani from Study by Janak at Ninad Patel’s XLNC costs between $250-800. A kurta Pyjama starts from $80 and dress shirts are priced from $50 and up. A designer suit at Shirin Vinayak’s
Shehenaai starts from $300 and bridal lehengas are from $700- 9,000. Diwan Saheb’s men’s collection at Surjit and Sweety’s Nazar starts from $250, upto $1,500, whereas men’s kurtis start at $80. The custom stitching for women’s bridal dress starts from $600 and up. Sarees in viscose; like the ones sported in the serial ‘Pia ka ghar’ start from $100 and the ones in georgette with zari pallu and zari blouse can cost as much as $3,000 at Jay Patel’s Rani Sahiba and Princess Collection. The Bridal wear at Zari Boutique start at $800 and as high as $5,000.
Hot N Happenings
- Wear lightweight sherwanis for the reception wear.
- For grooms who prefer an indowestern look, go for a bandgala (of the normal jacket length with five buttons instead of seven and is worn with formal western trousers).
- Bright embroidery is out, whereas understated and tasteful embroidery is the choice of the modern man down the neck and front.
- Go for ‘Neheru’ collar this year.
- If you must go for fully embroidered sherwani, avoid the contrast and go for it in self, where the embroidery color is the tone of the base fabric and gives is a rather embossed look. Complement it with a crushed tissue silk stole.
- Experiment with newer alternatives like rust, moss, Earth tones and even for the adventurous, fabrics in brocade or jamavar.
Accessorizing the Groom's Ensemble
- Jamavar shawl
- Decorated turban
- Bandhni or gharchola scarf draped on one shoulder
- Embroidered mojris (jutis/ footwear)
- Platinum; white gold, titanium, and even stainless steel wedding ring
- Rado, Omega or Rolex luxury watch
- Kada and Kripan worn by Sikhs are also getting a designer touch with gemstones for the Kripan cover
- Go for small, thick chains in gold and white colors
- Cuff-links with two-tones, Diamonds and Pearls with Leatherback
- Toned Bracelets in steel are in
- Pure silk ties or ties of the same color as your shirt or even a brocade tie with sober yet classy motifs is a safe bet.
- Go in for a cravat, with a complementary handkerchief folded appropriately and tucked into your coat breast pocket
- A bright streak of tilak on the forehead
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